February 10, 2015
New Haven / Eat / Miyas Sushi
Miya’s Sushi, New Haven
If the Shoreline had a Top Chef, Bun Lai would be a serious contender. He is obsessed with sustainability, local sourcing of the freshest seasonal ingredients and using sushi as a medium to express ideas about other cultures. He pairs fish and seafood that you might not expect to see in a sushi bar (he relies heavily on invasive species!) with unusual ingredients to come up with some weird, but delicious, morsels. The menu is 39 pages long, so peruse it if you’re bored with your date, but if not, choose one of the specials and get ready for a sushi party! We chose the “Future of Sushi,” a multi-course feast (I lost count!), including various sake cocktails (sake with lemon grass and honey…yum) and a surprising starter of pumpkin based spicy miso with acorn squash and sweet potato. A plate of slim slices of semi-frozen tilapia infused with beets (inspired by the Inuits who would keep fish frozen and slice off bits as needed) was a wonder, and my husband loved the jellyfish (crunchy, not slimey!) so much he ordered another. Kimchi-seared Wild Alaskan Salmon and “the Greatest Sushi South of the Mason Dixon Line” (Alaskan wild bycatch-free shrimp, asparagus, foraged burdock root and wild maitake mushroom-seasoned heirloom grits) were standouts. But all of it was so interesting and new to the palate that it’s difficult to say what was THE BEST. Our charming waiter seemed delighted that we just continued to order (and he kept the infused sake coming) until the last bite of rose petal ice cream. If you’ve never been to Miya’s, it’s an experience that defies categorization, but we’re so glad Bun Lai is here in New Haven.
tags: miyas sushi, sushi, new haven, bun lai, restaurant, miya’s