I’ve been to Wright’s twice and have yet to order steak. There’s so much yumminess to choose from that I didn’t feel compelled to eat a hunk of locally-raised, wood-fired meat. I’ll have plenty of opportunity because I know I’ll be back often. There will be the obvious comparisons, but this is a different restaurant than River Tavern. Yes, it’s steadfastly farm-to-table and the minimal decor (every sign of Gabrielle’s has been erased, it’s now all pale wood with bright red accents) aligns well with the brand. Occasionally I am flummoxed with the limited menu at RT, but here there’s tons of choice for even the pickiest diner.
In classic steakhouse fashion, plates are served a la carte. Sides feed at least two, and all the meat dishes are under $30. Portions are large. If you’re not in the mood for the red stuff, have the chicken! A succulent breast wrapped in crispy pancetta couldn’t have been tastier, ordered up with fat spears of local asparagus. Soft shell crab one night was barely battered and lightly fried; a perfect presentation. Starters run the gamut from RT’s famous Caesar Salad to chicken wings and trendy Scotch eggs. Share dessert: the scrumptious banana cake with cream cheese frosting is a whole individual cake and so is the flourless chocolate torte; plenty for the table. They’ve got some staff training to do, but given the full house and bustling bar, the wait was understandable. In a few more weeks, they’ll have the timing and service down. A welcome addition to the RT family and to the fine dining lineup on the Shoreline. And that rib-eye? Next time.